A skin contact, natural white wine with a pretty amber hue, but that pretty hue is deceptive. The nose is complex and intense, yet anything but harmonious—an odd but intriguing marriage of orange peel and apricot with prominent dill pickle tempered by a bit of honey. The fruit is bone dry and blocky, the rush of midpalate acidity, a high octane explosion of raw energy enveloping the fruit power early, with no middle ground between the brazenly tart high notes and the coarse, sandy texture of the tannins, a cut glass conversation-that continues through the long finish.

Pair with: Shellfish, oysters, chicken, light appetizers, cheese, fresh herbs and veggies.