By Jessica Norris Granatiero

Southern Italy is full of sunshine and a plethora of red grapes including the hidden gem primitivo. Coming from the region of Puglia, Italy’s area that resembles the heel of a boot, primitivo grows well in this warmer climate. The region of Puglia is recognized by its Baroque architecture, white hued buildings, trulli huts and vast areas of vineyards and farmland. Hundreds of miles of Puglia hugs the coast of the Adriatic & Ionian Seas, giving the area breezes off the ocean. The two main regions for the primitivo grape are Manduria and Gioia dell Colle. 

The DNA of primitivo is thought to be the same as the zinfandel grape that is grown mostly in California. The name comes from the root primo (meaning first in Italian) because the ripening of this grape is early (in August) compared to other grapes. Primitivo is a dark-skinned grape that exudes hues of violet and deep red in the glass. Medium to full bodied wines are a result of a winemaker’s prowess with this grape. There has been a surge in requests and information about this grape varietal during the last few years. 

Here are some of my Primitivo picks that are great matches for the cooler fall season cuisine. 

Luccarelli primitivo – Luccarelli is a great value wine. Its vineyards lie in the Salento Peninsula region which benefits from the constant ocean breezes. The growers also pick all the grapes by hand. Fermentation happens in stainless teel tanks, and then further refinement happens in used French and American oak barriques for an additional four to five months. A beautiful red and violet hue, the Luccarelli primitivo has a medium to full body with deep dark cherry and plum notes. The mid-palate is smooth with soft tannins. This rounds out at the end with a silky, smooth finish. This is a great match for grilled beef loin, pork belly atop Thai noodles and blackened salmon. The value is there at less than $15. 

Miali primitivo – The Miali family has been making wine since the late 1800s. The winery is located in the subregion of Martina Franca in Taranto, while the grapes for this primitivo are grown in the Gioia delle Colle region, one of the main Puglian subregions for grape growing. Miali’s primitivo is light to medium body with notes of blueberry, blackberry, chocolate and liquorice. Due to its aging in stainless steel, it exudes a fresh vibrancy and soft acidic profile. It is naturally a good partner for pasta dishes with vegetables and meat sauce, risotto with mushrooms and spaghetti carbonara.  

Coppi Siniscalco primitivo – The historic Coppi Winery dates back more than 100 years. It is located in the territory of Gioia del Colle, the renowned area as we know for making the highest quality of primitivo. In the 1960s, a young Antonio Coppi went to work in the vineyard that he would eventually purchase and thus began a family dynasty of producing prestigious Apulian wines. Today, the Coppi wines are exported to many countries. The Siniscalco primitivo is its lighter style selection. Produced in stainless steel tanks it shows us a fresh vibrant acidity backed by notes of blackberries, raspberries and plums. It’s a great match for lamb chops, baked pork tenderloin, sausage with broccoli rabe and white beans. 

Varvaglione 12 & Mezzo primitivo – Varvaglione has been making wine for more than 100 years and across four generations. It is also one of the biggest wineries in Puglia, coming from the Salento region. The winery team maintains its focus of traditional methods while also introducing new technology. They sell their wines locally in Puglia as well as in more than 60 countries. Made with organic grapes this primitivo displays its characteristic color of violet and deep red. The taste profile is of blackberries married with hints of nutmeg spice, cocoa and vanilla. The wine maintains its balance from its time in stainless steel tanks. The winemaking team does not use any oak treatment. Its food pairings include pasta with meat sauce, rich creamy Italian cheeses, and grilled vegetables with fresh diced tomatoes. 

Enjoy the colors and flavors of this sought-after wine.